Day Two

Valencia Street and Environs

Valencia Street, one block west of Mission, is a mix of old and new. It boasts venues for visitors from various cultures, and here are some of the Latin highlights.

13 Mission Dolores (16th and Dolores; 621-8203), completed in 1791, is the original mission church and oldest building in San Francisco. Daily Mass there is at 7:30 a.m. and 9 a.m. Visitors can tour the church and adjacent cemetery.

Two bookstores nearby have interesting and unusual inventories.
14 La Casa del Libro (973 Valencia; 285-1399) has one of the Bay Area’s largest selections of Spanish-language books and journals. 15 Modern Times Bookstore (888 Valencia; 282-9246) specializes in Spanish-language materials, avant garde and world literature, and hard-to-find fiction, especially by women of color.

Down the street is 16 Encantada Gallery (908 Valencia; 642-3939) featuring hand-crafted fine arts from Mexico. Stop in at 17 Back to the Picture (934 Valencia; 826-2321). More than a frame shop, you can also buy prints and get information about local and international Latino artists.

Farther along Valencia is 18 Botánica Yoruba (998 Valencia; 826-4967). For those familiar with Santería, the African-inspired religion that grew up among the slave populations of the Caribbean and Brazil, this shop may hold no surprises. But for most people, the candles, herbs, and scented oils provide a window on another world. Books and pamphlets promise lessons in casting spells and removing hexes. Oils and incense are categorized according to their purpose — to bring love or luck, to dominate, to break up, to bring luck at bingo. The candles are dedicated to madonnas such as Our Lady of the 12-Step Programs and Our Lady of Triumphant Drag Queens.

At lunchtime in the Mission, thoughts turn to burritos fat with rice, beans and the meat of your choice. Try one of the originals of the taqueria genre:
19 El Faro (2399 Folsom; 647-3716), serving flavor-filled burritos, tacos and tortas. Takeout only.

Just off Valencia on 18th St. is the 20 San Francisco Women’s Building (3543 18th St.; 431-1180). Seven women artists and scores of volunteers created the elaborate four-story mural on the facade of the building, which houses community service programs. The mural celebrates women and goddesses, designs and calligraphy.

Dinnertime brings a choice of cuisines. Try 21 Limon (524 Valencia; 252-0918) with its sleek lime-green exterior and nuevo Peruvian food. For evening dancing, it’s not far to everybody’s favorite party spot, 22 El Rio (3158 Mission; 282-3325). Afro-Latin, Caribbean and Brazilian beat on Fridays, rock on Saturday, salsa on the patio with live bands on Sunday.

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