Day Three

Mission Street

Mission is San Francisco’s only street that runs the length of the city, changing character with each neighborhood it passes through. South beyond Division Street, it takes on its Latino accent amid the most ethnically diverse commerce in the city: Chinese fish markets, Salvadoran fruit and vegetable stores, Filipino food stands, Vietnamese groceries, Mexican jewelers, and on and on.

For Nicaraguan cuisine, try 23 Las Tinajas Restaurant (2338 Mission; 695-9933) featuring charbroiled meats and zesty seafoods. Lunch specialties change daily and the soups satisfy.

When it comes to salsa and other music with a Latin beat, 24 Ritmo Latino (2401 Mission; 824-8556), part of a chain with 18 stores in California, offers the city’s largest collection of Spanish compact discs and tapes. At listening posts you can sample from among thousands of titles before buying.

25 Latin Bride (2631 Mission; 647-4200) is regarded throughout the Latin community as THE source of trappings for special occasions, religious and cultural — weddings, baby showers, baptisms, communions, compleaños. Everything is hand-made or -assembled: crystal and porcelain party favors, customized dresses, lace-covered kneeling pillows, picture perfect bouquets, ribbon-wrapped candles.

26 Lucky Pork Store (2659 Mission; 285-3611) offers cuts of meat not available in local supermarkets: legs of goat, blood by the pound, cow lips and every piece of the pig from snout to tail, unusual cuts for delicious ethnic meals. Across the street at 27 23rd and Mission Produce (2700 Mission; 285-7955) is displayed a cornucopia of fruit and vegetables with the atmosphere of a mini farmers’ market.

Between 24th and 25th streets are two bakeries that do such booming business that frequently you stand in line to be served. 28 King’s Bakery Cafe (2846 Mission; 282-4550) offers peasant-like pastries, rolls and breads. Across the street, 29 Dianda’s (2883 Mission; 647-5469) sells creamy-rich Italian pastries with tira misu a specialty. The nearby 30 Mission Cultural Center (2868 Mission; 821-1155) features live performances and workshops for the community.

Across César Chávez St., into the Outer Mission District, is 31 Lelenita’s Cakes (3743 Mission; 282-2253) with custom-made cakes for every special occasion. A highlight is tres leches cake made with three types of milk: whole, condensed and evaporated. In one of the store’s finest hours, Oct. 3, 1987, King Juan Carlos of Spain visited the city and Lelenita’s made him a huge sheet cake emblazoned with the royal crest.

Pupusas are a specialty at the Salvadoran 32 La Santaneca (3781 Mission; 648-1034). Across the street at 33 Adelita’s Cakes & Bakery (3780 Mission; 824-4584) be sure to try the Nicaraguan ices in six fresh fruit flavors.

34 Piñata Art Studio and Gallery (4268 Mission; 333-8001) is chock-full of piñatas of all sizes and types, from flying saucers to princesses, made to order as well as ready-made imported from Mexico. It also sells palos sticks, crepe paper-covered bats to break open the piñatas, and in a back room displays the art of Central American and local Latin artists. Owner Romeo Osorio says he’ll custom make any kind of a piñata, as long as he has a picture to work from.

For nighttime fun — original plays, concerts, film festivals — call the 35 Victoria Theatre (2961 16th St.; 863-7576), the oldest operating theater in San Francisco. Or go to 36 Roccapulco Night Club (3140 Mission; 648-6611), the biggest salsa dance club in San Francisco with hot live bands on weekends. Across the street, for Salvadoran seafood and great ambience, try Brisas de Acapulco (3137 Mission; 826-1496).

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